Avalonia Is Every Bouldering Climber's Sanctuary In Germany

Are you one of those North-European cimbers, who escape the cold and drive to the sunny Spanish cliffs for the winter? Or perhaps you are on your way back to enjoy the short northern climbing season? If you happen to travel through Germany, spend a day or two bouldering at the unbelievable Avalonia.

Me and T stopped there for a few days as we drove towards Sweden from Fontainebleau. A tip from two German friends led us to this rare find – one of the few good bouldering areas between Font and North Europe.

Caves at Avalonia
Grim caves are the thing at Avalonia.

Daniel at Avalonia
If you have any luck, you'll even get yourself a local guide at Avalonia.

Don't get me wrong, though! Avalonia can't be compared to Fontainebleau. It's is a place to make a short pitstop driving to or from Fontainebleau and as such, Avalonia serves well. Easy access and convenient location near the huge highways and a couple of campsites make Avalonia almost perfect sanctuary for a travelling climber tired of driving.

The shady forest with many caves and overhangs offers some solid entertainment across the grades. As long as you know your hooks, you'll have fun climbing at Avalonia!

In our favor, Avalonia stays dry even if it rains a bit. The deepest caves are probably climbable in case it happens to rain cats and dogs, but being well sheltered they might also take some time to dry.

Avalonia roof
This roof offers much fun for those, who enjoy high balls.

I must say a few words about the rock type and quality, too. The edgy rock is called Ruhr sandstone, but the feeling and looks are more granite-like – hard with sharp corners and holds. Yet it doesn't tear your skin in the way, that granite might do.

If nothing else, I'd say Avalonia is the most unique place me and T visited this winter. Compared to our last year's adventure in Elbsandstein Avalonia isn't as scary, but it gave another unique glimpse of what Germany has to offer for a rock climber on the road.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about Avalonia is, that the place has a human heart. The lush mountain is owned by Daniel, who lives there and has developed the area to the point where it is today. His untameable enthusiasm to develop new areas and craft superb landings will make every climber gasp their breath.

Map of Avalonia bouldering area
This map of Avalonia made by Daniel  warmly welcomes you to the forest.

When it comes to a guidebook, you can buy one from Daniel. Daniel is basically a walking guidebook himself, but he has some hand drawn Avalonia guidebooks for sale as well. His mystic art bubbling from the foresty climber's haven is well worth the money.

Hopefully you get to read this post, Daniel – you will travel with us everywhere we go!

Avalonia bouldering guidebook
Daniel's guidebooks feature hand drawn illustrations of Avalonia.

For us, Avalonia was the second to last place me and T climbed at before arriving to Finland. Up next I'll share the reasons why me and T are so keen on climbing in Finland in the summer.

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