Sport Climbing Near Valencia, Spain: Montesa

The municipality of Montesa near Valencia hosts a unique little crag with easy approach and enjoyable sport routes for beginners and intermediate climbers. In case you're up for a pit stop between El Chorro and Chulilla, climbing at Montesa offers fun for a day or two in the middle of Spanish winter.

Montesa is especially great, if you happen to travel with climbing kids. There's plenty of indoorsy sport routes around and below 6a, that seem to offer much joy for young climbers. Tougher routes do exist, but Montesa might not be the best crag for pushing your limits over 6c.

Montesa crag and village
Climbing at Montesa can feel like climbing indoors, since on many routes huge jugs and deep pockets follow one another. But watch out for nasty cruxes!

Montesa castle
Climbing at Montesa takes place right next to the castle of Montesa.

Routes at Montesa are of high quality and rock feels careless to climb. The bulgy formations behind the castle of Montesa remind me of Elbsandstein sand stone pillars, but in fact they are limestone. Curvaceous yellow and black shapes treasure plenty of jugs and pockets for those, who dare to challenge the odd looking rock.

According to Rockfax: Costa Blanca, the cruxy Ningún Drama (7a) is one of the top 50 routes in the whole area.

But beware. While shady routes can always be found at Montesa, the otherwise rough rock turns very slippery within minutes after exposed to sun.

Many of the routes are also somewhat polished. Glassy holds are found mostly on routes below 6a, since they appear to see the most traffic here. The crag is busy with families and other leisurely climbers especially on Sundays.

Montesa crag and climbers
You can easily deal with a 60-meter rope at Montesa, since the crag is around 20 meters tall at it's highest.

When it comes to camping at Montesa, you don't have to drive off to a camping site for the night. As long as you're discreet, sleeping in a van or motorhome is tolerated at the castle's parking lot.

By the way! While you're visiting Montesa, I suggest you enjoy a brownie and a refreshing drink at the restaurant El Ramallar. That's where you can buy the guidebook for Montesa and other nearby crags, such as Bellús and Aventador as well. Both the restaurant and guidebook can very well be recommended.

Montesa climbing guidebook
For 25 Euros the climbing guidebook for de l'Estret de les Aigües and de la Costera areas is a bargain. Photos are highly detailed and the book has a lot of other useful information as well. 

El Ramallar brownie
A Brownie and Coke Zero cost 6 Euros at El Ramallar. I'm happy to pay that price for a delicious treat, friendly staff and a wonderful view.

Have a nice time climbing at Montesa and other crags near Valencia and Chulilla! In case of any questions or recommendations, feel free to make use of the comment box below.

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