Sport Climbing Near Valencia, Spain: Bellús and Aventador

Have you had enough of climbing in Chulilla? If you're up for some driving, the surroundings of Valencia also host many small to medium-sized crags well worth visiting – Bellús and Aventador to name a few.

Bellús and Aventador are right next to each other, but of totally different worlds.

Bellús

While Bellús is nowhere near as big as the Goliath on everybody's lips, the steep limestone walls with closely packed routes offer plenty of great climbing above 6a. If you're able to climb 7a, you'll have even more fun climbing at Béllus.

The crag is divided into two separate areas. Barranc Fondo is the sunny south face and makes a fine winter crag, whereas the north face known as L'Altet is more suitable for hot days in spring or autumn.

The wall is more or less overhanging on both sides of the hill. However, l'Altet features a couple of tufa infested caves or cuevas with routes for highly motivated climbers. Barranc Fondo is a bit easier to approach and has more basic holds.

If you like both sun and tufas, try Moco de Pavo (7a)!

To balance the steepness of the cliff, routes are short without exception. You can easily climb with a 60-meter rope at Bellús, since the crag is hardly 20 meters high.

Barranc Fondo
After the bland gray slab, Barranc Fondo turns steeper and more interesting.

A Cave at l'Altet
This cave offers challenges up to 8b.

And how to get there? Bellús is located about 70 km south of Valencia. When you reach the outskirts of the sleepy little town, there are two spacious parking lots – one for the sunny side and one for the dark side of the hill. The crag can't be seen from neither of the parking lots, but clear paths take you to the right direction.

Aventador

You can't write about Bellús without mentioning Aventador. Aventador is Bellús' neighboring crag and in fact only Río Albaida separates the two.

Other than the location, Aventador has nothing in common with Bellús. Routes there are mostly less than vertical and some of them are over 40 meters in length. The homogeneous gray slab creates a wonderful contrast to the orange and black caves across the river.

Aventador
On windy days, Aventador is very exposed.



A climber on the slab at Aventador
It's recommended to have an 80-meter rope for climbing at Aventador. Some of the routes even have two pitches.

Aventador also has it´s own parking lot. It's not possible to cross the river by car and in order to cut the hike from 45 minutes to 15 minutes, you must approach Aventador from the direction of Genovés.

Lastly: where to buy a climbing guidebook for Bellús, Aventador and other crags near Valencia?
Rockfax: Costa Blanca includes Bellús and Aventador, but the book is almost a good as nothing. Pictures are too general, many routes are missing and those in the guidebook are mixed up.

I recommend buying the guidebook made by local climbers instead. Me and T bought the guidebook for Aigües and Costera districts (Guia d'Escalada; de l'Estret de les Aigües i de la Costera) for 25 Euros from El Ramallar in Montesa.

Head for Montesa, have a brownie at El Ramallar and visit the local crag, while you're there – I'll tell you more about it in the next post!

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