Rocking Multi-Pitch Climbing In Rédovan, Near Murcia
Are you looking for an easygoing winter
crag close to Murcia? Preferrably one with a great set of multi-pitch
routes around 6b? If that's the case, a crag in the outscirts of the
small, but lively town of Rédovan is well worth a visit.
For such a small place, Rédovan has plenty of long lines to climb for sure. There's around a dozen of generously bolted multi pitch routes mere meters from each other, which is both a pro and a con.
Rédovan has all that it takes to
entertain you from a long weekend to a couple of weeks. The crag
features an exceptionally good selection of multi pitch routes from
5+ to 6c, that are accompanied by a handful of single pitch routes
around the same level of difficulty. In this post I'm going to concentrate on multi-pitch climbing in Rédovan.
This is the point where you can throw
away that mental image of a huge cliff (like El Chorro) or a gorge
with majestic vultures flying mere meters from you (like Verdon).
Rédovan is a semi-urban crag and pretty modest in height. At it's
tallest, the cliff is about 150 meters high and looking over the town
of Rédovan.
Don't get me wrong, though! Multi pitch climbing in Rédovan can be very satisfying, and on a clear day it's nice to look how the town bathes in sun.
The crag itself get's a fair share of sun, too. Rédovan is a south face and that's what makes the place a pleasant winter crag. You can climb here in a t-shirt in January! In the summer, I advise you to find a cooler setting at some other crag far from this cacti-growing cliff.
Don't get me wrong, though! Multi pitch climbing in Rédovan can be very satisfying, and on a clear day it's nice to look how the town bathes in sun.
The crag itself get's a fair share of sun, too. Rédovan is a south face and that's what makes the place a pleasant winter crag. You can climb here in a t-shirt in January! In the summer, I advise you to find a cooler setting at some other crag far from this cacti-growing cliff.
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The crag might seem huge, but climbing in Redovan is restricted to the rightmost part of the cliff from 1. of January to 30. June. |
For such a small place, Rédovan has plenty of long lines to climb for sure. There's around a dozen of generously bolted multi pitch routes mere meters from each other, which is both a pro and a con.
Let me explain myself a bit. When me
and T started driving towards the southeastern coast of Spain, we
were faced with a question: where to buy a climbing guidebook for
Costa Blanca area? A serious dilemma, if you're not aware of climbing
shops near you.
After a bit of googling and driving
around we managed to buy the Rockfax: Costa Blanca guidebook from
Factor 2 – a small, but well equipped climbing shop in Murcia. The
guidebook has plenty of useful information on climbing in Rédovan
with good photos and detailed descriptions.
The problem is, that the guidebook is from year 2013 and a lot has happened in Rédovan after that.New routes seem to have popped up like mushrooms after rain (as we say in Finland) in the past few years. Since there's a bolt on almost every square meter, it sometimes takes a great deal of effort to spot the route you're looking for.
The locals have apparently experienced
the same issue and tried to solve it in a few ways. Each route has
it's own name tag with grade(s) on it as well, and in places the
bolts are colored with blue, orange, black or some other
distinguishing color. Crying over spilled milk, are you?
Once you get over the overbolting, a couple of routes truly earn their stars.
When it comes to recommendations, I'd
say José Hernández (3 pitches, max 6b) and Capitulos X (4 pitches,
max 6b) stand out from the crowd. The first three pitches of Termina-Y-Tor (4 pitches, max 6c) also offer some excellent climbing,
but the last pitch with sharp holds and draggy corners is terrible.
Remember to mind the rocks while rappelling, though. The crag tends to get busy sometimes, so using a helmet is also advisable.
Remember to mind the rocks while rappelling, though. The crag tends to get busy sometimes, so using a helmet is also advisable.
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Apart from the last pitch, Termina-Y-Tor offered some excellent climbing! |
All in all climbing in Rédovan is very
enjoyable. Rock feels trustworthy and bolts come in your reach
whenever you need them. Climbing is mainly on slabby or vertical
limestone with a few bulges here and there.
But where to go after a sweaty day at the crag? Is camping in Rédovan possible?
As for camping, don't stay near the
crag. The spacious parking lot located just a 15-minute hike from the
cliff may seem like a luring spot for camping, but it turns into a
teenager's party zone in the evening. The party goes on all night
long and you won't be able to sleep without a proper pair of
earplugs. If you can handle the hullabaloo, it seems that nobody
really cares about a few vans parked behind the piscina i.e. public
swimming pool.
That's all for now. Go enjoy the
urban(ish) winter crag and ask for more information, if you feel like
it! Next post will be about something very different than the relaxed
multi pitch climbing in Rédovan.
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