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6 Weeks Of Bouldering In Alcañiz, Spain: Part 2

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I'm writing this as me and T are finally driving away from Alcañiz. In the end we spent two whole months bouldering in Alcañiz and I have to say, leaving those magnificent sandstone blocks behind makes me feel blue.
The peaceful hills crusted with an endless amount of brushed and unbrushed boulders, stable weather and the small, but lively town definitely gets a grip of you.
As promised in my previous post about bouldering in Alcañiz, I'll now share some practical tips to make your climbing holiday even more enjoyable. In this post I'm going to concentrate on what you should pack in your backpack, camping in Alcañiz as well as where to get food, water and a decent meal after grinding on the smooth Spanish rock. Crash Pads, Shoes, Chalk... What Do You Need And Where To Get It? When you're about to go bouldering in Alcañiz, make sure to take plenty of everything from home. There is no real climbing shop in Alcañiz, altough chalk and brushes can be found from local shops.

6 Weeks Of Bouldering In Alcañiz, Spain: Best Sectors and Other Useful Tips

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My fingertips feel a bit sore while typing this post, since me and T have now spent 6 weeks bouldering in Alcañiz. In case you haven't hear of the place, Alcañiz is located roughly 200 km from the famous Albarracín and offers you hundreds of boulder problems away from the masses.

Hills and valleys surrounding the town of Alcañiz are a home for legions of liquorice ice cream colored boulders, that vary both in shape and how easy (or hard) they are to grasp.
Yellow roofs, deep hollows and pockets in contrast with black, smooth slabs... Oh, and plenty of problems made for honing on your manteling skills! All on sandstone, that provides an excellent friction from autumn to spring.


There's so much I want to tell you about bouldering in Alcañiz, that I decided to share it into two individual posts. This time I'm going to get you started and concentrate on the climbing itself, whereas in the next post I will reveal some other useful tips for anyone planning to go bouldering in Al…

Sport Climbing Near Valencia, Spain: Montesa

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The municipality of Montesa near Valencia hosts a unique little crag with easy approach and enjoyable sport routes for beginners and intermediate climbers. In case you're up for a pit stop between El Chorro and Chulilla, climbing at Montesa offers fun for a day or two in the middle of Spanish winter.

Montesa is especially great, if you happen to travel with climbing kids. There's plenty of indoorsy sport routes around and below 6a, that seem to offer much joy for young climbers. Tougher routes do exist, but Montesa might not be the best crag for pushing your limits over 6c.


Routes at Montesa are of high quality and rock feels careless to climb. The bulgy formations behind the castle of Montesa remind me of Elbsandstein sand stone pillars, but in fact they are limestone. Curvaceous yellow and black shapes treasure plenty of jugs and pockets for those, who dare to challenge the odd looking rock.
According to Rockfax: Costa Blanca, the cruxy Ningún Drama (7a) is one of the top 50…

Sport Climbing Near Valencia, Spain: Bellús and Aventador

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Have you had enough of climbing in Chulilla? If you're up for some driving, the surroundings of Valencia also host many small to medium-sized crags well worth visiting – Bellús and Aventador to name a few.

Bellús While Bellús is nowhere near as big as the Goliath on everybody's lips, the steep limestone walls with closely packed routes offer plenty of great climbing above 6a. If you're able to climb 7a, you'll have even more fun climbing at Béllus.

The crag is divided into two separate areas. Barranc Fondo is the sunny south face and makes a fine winter crag, whereas the north face known as L'Altet is more suitable for hot days in spring or autumn.

The wall is more or less overhanging on both sides of the hill. However, l'Altet features a couple of tufa infested caves or cuevas with routes for highly motivated climbers. Barranc Fondo is a bit easier to approach and has more basic holds.

If you like both sun and tufas, try Moco de Pavo (7a)!
To balance the steep…

What Could Go Wrong? 7 Nasty Surprises At a Crag

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If you're travelling and climbing, new crags don't always meet your expectations. It happens every once in a while, if you tend to go for smaller and less climbed places, but it's not that uncommon to confront problems at bigger cliffs either.

Let me share you some of the worst let-downs me and T have experienced before and during our road trip in Europe. My intention is to give you a good chuckle as well as a heads up of what to look out for at an unfamiliar crag. There Is No Crag Yes, it can happen. We've stepped into this mine at least once in Bolonia, Spain. It was in January last year, when me and T escaped a few chilly nights from El Chorro and decided to go bouldering in Bolonia.
After circling around the coastline near Tarifa without any sign of the promised boulders, we gave up. Luckily a few day's of climbing in San Bartolo offered enough exercise until the weather got warmer again in El Chorro. To this day, it's still a mystery to us whether there i…

Bouldering In Murcia – Some Like It Chipped!

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Are you up for a few of days of bouldering in Murcia? Let's go then! Drive through the city part of Alberca Las Torres, enter the El Valle regional park and squirm up the hill for a couple of minutes. In the shady forest lies a band of limestone boulders, that offer you problems from 5+ to 7b.

Hold on a second. Why am I sharing our encountering with these boulders, that can't be described as 'breathtaking', 'crazy cool' or anything else exceptionally great? Because I want to show you a glimpse of what's a climber's life on the road really like. In that life, you aren't always climbing at world-famous crags (like Verdon) or even at medium-sized cliffs (like Rédovan).  Every once in a while you end up cranking smaller and less-known rocks, that just happen to be near you.

The boulders in Murcia are exactly that. A handful of blocks, that feel almost abandoned by local climbers and are not really known by tourists. They offer you enough puzzle for one…

Rocking Multi-Pitch Climbing In Rédovan, Near Murcia

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Are you looking for an easygoing winter crag close to Murcia? Preferrably one with a great set of multi-pitch routes around 6b? If that's the case, a crag in the outscirts of the small, but lively town of Rédovan is well worth a visit.

Rédovan has all that it takes to entertain you from a long weekend to a couple of weeks. The crag features an exceptionally good selection of multi pitch routes from 5+ to 6c, that are accompanied by a handful of single pitch routes around the same level of difficulty. In this post I'm going to concentrate on multi-pitch climbing in Rédovan.


This is the point where you can throw away that mental image of a huge cliff (like El Chorro) or a gorge with majestic vultures flying mere meters from you (like Verdon). Rédovan is a semi-urban crag and pretty modest in height. At it's tallest, the cliff is about 150 meters high and looking over the town of Rédovan.

Don't get me wrong, though! Multi pitch climbing in Rédovan can be very satisfying, …

Multi Pitch Climbing In El Chorro: Part 2

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After spending several months climbing in and around El Chorro (Spain), the place feels like a home to me. The sky-reaching Frontales in the middle of a rugged highland view with dozens of vultures is where my thoughts always wander. Those things are also the reason why you, my travelling and climbing reader, should visit El Chorro at least once in a lifetime.

When it comes to climbing, opportunities in El Chorro are almost endless.  It would take me forever to tell you everything about climbing in El Chorro, so this time I'm going to concentrate on the multi pitch routes east of Poema Roca. Yep, there's enough of them to entertain you for many sunny days!


Let's start from the easiest multi pitch you can imagine. Despite having a dozen pitches, Blue Line (12 pitches, max 5c) is the perfect choice for your first multi pitch ever.
The whole of Blue Line is well bolted, rock quality is excellent and climbing itself is quite homogeneous.
All these things make Blue Line a bet…