Showing posts from 2019

What Could Go Wrong? 7 Nasty Surprises At a Crag

If you're travelling and climbing, new crags don't always meet your expectations. It happens every once in a while, if you tend to go for smaller and less climbed places, but it's not that uncommon to confront problems at bigger cliffs either.

Let me share you some of the worst let-downs me and T have experienced before and during our road trip in Europe. My intention is to give you a good chuckle as well as a heads up of what to look out for at an unfamiliar crag. There Is No Crag Yes, it can happen. We've stepped into this mine at least once in Bolonia, Spain. It was in January last year, when me and T escaped a few chilly nights from El Chorro and decided to go bouldering in Bolonia.
After circling around the coastline near Tarifa without any sign of the promised boulders, we gave up. Luckily a few day's of climbing in San Bartolo offered enough exercise until the weather got warmer again in El Chorro. To this day, it's still a mystery to us whether there i…

Bouldering In Murcia – Some Like It Chipped!

Are you up for a few of days of bouldering in Murcia? Let's go then! Drive through the city part of Alberca Las Torres, enter the El Valle regional park and squirm up the hill for a couple of minutes. In the shady forest lies a band of limestone boulders, that offer you problems from 5+ to 7b.

Hold on a second. Why am I sharing our encountering with these boulders, that can't be described as 'breathtaking', 'crazy cool' or anything else exceptionally great? Because I want to show you a glimpse of what's a climber's life on the road really like. In that life, you aren't always climbing at world-famous crags (like Verdon) or even at medium-sized cliffs (like Rédovan).  Every once in a while you end up cranking smaller and less-known rocks, that just happen to be near you.

The boulders in Murcia are exactly that. A handful of blocks, that feel almost abandoned by local climbers and are not really known by tourists. They offer you enough puzzle for one…

Rocking Multi-pitch Climbing In Rédovan, Near Murcia

Are you looking for an easygoing winter crag close to Murcia? Preferrably one with a great set of multi-pitch routes around 6b? If that's the case, a crag in the outscirts of the small, but lively town of Rédovan is well worth a visit.

Rédovan has all that it takes to entertain you from a long weekend to a couple of weeks. The crag features an exceptionally good selection of multi pitch routes from 5+ to 6c, that are accompanied by a handful of single pitch routes around the same level of difficulty. In this post I'm going to concentrate on multi-pitch climbing in Rédovan.

This is the point where you can throw away that mental image of a huge cliff (like El Chorro) or a gorge with majestic vultures flying mere meters from you (like Verdon). Rédovan is a semi-urban crag and pretty modest in height. At it's tallest, the cliff is about 150 meters high and looking over the town of Rédovan.

Don't get me wrong, though! Multi pitch climbing in Rédovan can be very satisfying, …

Multi Pitch Climbing In El Chorro: Part 2

After spending several months climbing in and around El Chorro (Spain), the place feels like a home to me. The sky-reaching Frontales in the middle of a rugged highland view with dozens of vultures is where my thoughts always wander. Those things are also the reason why you, my travelling and climbing reader, should visit El Chorro at least once in a lifetime.

When it comes to climbing, opportunities in El Chorro are almost endless.  It would take me forever to tell you everything about climbing in El Chorro, so this time I'm going to concentrate on the multi pitch routes east of Poema Roca. Yep, there's enough of them to entertain you for many sunny days!

Let's start from the easiest multi pitch you can imagine. Despite having a dozen pitches, Blue Line (12 pitches, max 5c) is the perfect choice for your first multi pitch ever.
The whole of Blue Line is well bolted, rock quality is excellent and climbing itself is quite homogeneous.
All these things make Blue Line a bet…