Halsvuori, The Granite Jewel Of Middle Finland

Looking for some great sport climbing in mid-Finland? Perhaps some traditional climbing as well? You just found your go-to crag! Located a short drive from Jyväskylä, Halsvuori is a popular crag with many high-class lines to climb. The shaded and a bit rugged-looking crag has a variety of slab, vertical as well as overhanging sport routes from 5c to 7c and trad lines from 4 to 7.

Measured with a Finnish yardstick, the routes at Halsvuori are also quite long. Being a land of a thousand lak... boulders, Finland has a lot of crags with just 10-15-meter routes. Halsvuori, however, has several lines longer than that. But don't worry, that 60-meter rope of yours is still enough to get you safely to the anchor and back on 99% of the routes.

Harri Leskinen climbing Taivaanrannan Maalari (7c) at sector Piina.

Have I already praised Halsvuori enough to have caught your interest? Great! Now I can reveal the cons or more like a con, that the place has. Truth being told, there aren't that many easy routes at Halsvuori. At least, if you are not ready to compromise – like, big time – on the quality of the climbing. Wether you'd like to climb a few 6as as a warm-up or enjoy some leisurely climbing on a hot summer day, it's just as dull, that easy routes are almost non-existent at Halsvuori.

That being said, my favourite warm-up at Halsvuori is Green Planet (5c). I actually have a bit of a habit climbing it every time I go to Halsvuori. It's a nice, long slab – and a really pleasant route to get your feet used to the excellent friction of Finnish granite. It's also one of the routes at Halsvuori, that require an exactly 60-meter rope!

Above 6a, just pick your favourite of the couple of dozen cool lines. 
I don't climb more than 7a, so my recommendations are limited to following routes: Leikki-ikä (6c), Rockpastori (6c+) and Esterin P (6b). If you're into traditional climbing, Ässä-Mix (6/6b) is also a nice line. And according to T, Ikuinen Tuska (6b+) is a real 6b-test piece. Go ahead, give it a try!

Ässä-Mix (6/6b) at sector Imodium.

And the topo? To get a topo to Halsvuori, buy the .premium membership of 27Crags. You pay only 3,9-5,9 euros/ month and get access to other .premium topos as well. At the moment, 27 Crags is the only up-to-date guidebook, that covers sport and trad crags as well as boulders in all of Finland. The latest old school guidebook is miserably outdated (and sold out as well), and the new Finnish climbing guidebook hasn't come out yet.

Never heard of 27 Crags? It's a about time you do!
27 Crags is a Finnish website and mobile app, that offers you both free and .premium topos to crags around the world. Halsvuori is just a tip of the topo-iceberg: 27 Crags also has topos to word-famous crags, such as Kalymnos, Siurana and Albarracin. If you're planning on visiting many different crags around Europe, .premium membership of 27 Crags might be a good investment.

If you end up buying the .premium membership of 27 Crags, you must visit Olhava, too. Offering more (and better) traditional climbing than Halsvuori, Olhava is a crag you don't want to miss out on. Just read the post 3 Reasons to love Olhava, the Finnish sanctuary of traditional climbing and start packing! To get more recommendations of both sport and trad crags as well as boulders in Finland, make use of the comment box below.


Popular posts from this blog

Avalonia Is Every Bouldering Climber's Sanctuary In Germany

The Notorious, Scary And Absolutely Amazing Elbsandstein

6 Weeks Of Bouldering In Alcañiz, Spain: Best Sectors and Other Useful Tips